"Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To" (murdersofa)
07/25/2017 at 23:26 • Filed to: None
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"Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To" (murdersofa)
07/25/2017 at 23:26 • Filed to: None | 3
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Went to a junkyard. $42 later I have this. Ford Taurus 3.8 V6 fan. I then put it in the Jag.
The Taurus fan is odd. It has three wires, one high speed, one low speed, one ground, but it will not engage the high speed unless the low speed is not hot, so I got this relay at Oreilly Auto for $8.
10 gauge wire provides the power for the whole thing. Goes through one 30 amp relay that is triggered by accessory power to turn on the low speed, then when the second relay is energized by the A/C clutch trigger wire it switches to high speed. Eventually I’ll get the ubiquitous Volvo relay pack and dual mode temp sensor but I can’t find one locally so this will do.
Didn’t have time to fab up a proper mount bracket but this will do. It’s a lot more solid than its off-kilter appearance would suggest.
ZIP TIE ALL THE THINGS!
Somehow I wired up the fan backwards. Once fixed it seems to move a pretty impressive amount of air. The voltage drop on my dashboard looks pretty ridiculous but when measured at the alternator it’s still managing 12.7 volts with the fan on high despite showing 9 volts on the dashboard.
7 miles of highway and then 5 miles of 30mph stop/go in town with 91 degree ambient temp just after sundown and this is the result. Not horrible. It did start creeping up if I sat in park. Again, the volvo relay pack and dual mode temp sensor will come eventually, and I *really* need to find a 30 amp fusible link. Pretty pleased for the moment, though.
DrScientist
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
07/25/2017 at 23:38 |
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nice work. i wont be the tightass that dings you for using tape rather than shrink wrap, because i know how it goes. i drove mine with a bag full of other bags of various repair materials. one had a spool of 10 ga.
i miss those barrel dials.
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Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> DrScientist
07/26/2017 at 00:57 |
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I bought heat shrink and it was the wrong damn size by ever such a small amount. Couldn’t return it and didn’t have money for the proper size. All of that will be going away when I get the proper Volvo relay pack and temperature sensors anyways so I’m not sweating any of it.
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
07/26/2017 at 01:41 |
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Not permanent and not for a customer. It should work reliably until you upgrade it. Who cares how it looks.
Sovande
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
07/26/2017 at 06:59 |
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Shouldn’t the temperature gauge read somewhere closer to the the middle? A SBC should run at like 190-210 to be most efficient. I am still so confused by what you are trying to accomplish.
Sweet Trav
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
07/26/2017 at 08:55 |
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IIRC those Taurus fans draw a whole lot of amperage, make sure you run a good 30/40 amp fuse. 10GA wire should be enough.
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Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> Sweet Trav
07/26/2017 at 10:24 |
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They’ll pop a 40 amp fuse. Start up amperage is 80 amps. Needs a fusible link.
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Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> Sovande
07/26/2017 at 10:28 |
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I thought I explained that my goal is to get rid of the fixed mechanical fan and the ridiculous power draw it has at 3000rpm on the highway and the harmonic vibrations it causes. Also the electric fan can help with engine bay heat soak by running at full speed regardless of engine speed.
I have no clue what temperatures are actually represented by the temp gauge. Supposedly midway is about 180 degrees but I’m not sure.
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Sovande
> Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
07/26/2017 at 11:01 |
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Okay, gotcha. I can see your point with a fixed clutch fan. With a thermal clutch the fan will “slip” at speed and not cause those issues. The thermal clutch would only engage when under hood temps reach a certain point, which is why I would suggest a thermal clutch and mechanical fan. With a radiator as big as you have, you may not even need it. Maybe you can get a cheap temp gauge and jumper it to the sender and see where you are so you have a baseline? At least that way you don’t have to be concerned with the draw from the electrical fan.
If the fan set up you have now is working, it sounds like a good solution though. I just went through all this which is why it is all fresh on my mind. I kept it simple and keep an eye on the temp gauge in traffic.